Treve & Katrina Travel The World

On the road again...

Travelling in style

This time after another couple of days flying around Bangkok by tuk-tuk, we decided to take the overnight sleeper up to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. The rickety old train reminded us very much of the Mombassa to Nairobil train, bearing all of the same characteristics (think 1960's British Rail). The transformation from 2 seater compartments to bunk-beds was captivating as was the exhausted guard who seemed to change the whole train in a matter of a few breathless minutes.

The 14 hour journey passed relatively slowly as every jolt gave the impression we were about to tip over - particularly for Katrina who seemed to draw the short straw and took the precarious position on the top bunk. As we ventured further north, the landscape changed dramatically, from flooded plains to densely forested mountains rising above deep valleys.

Chiang Mai street scene

The usual tussle of tuk-tuk drivers marked our arrival at Chiang Mai Central Station. We emerged bleary-eyed but looking forward to exploring this city nestled in the mountains - or so we thought. As the tuk-tuk flung us around this chaotic provincial hub, the tranquil idyll that we had hoped for proved to be a slight disappointment as it seemed to ressemble a smaller version of Bangkok.

Looks inviting - any takers?

However, the place really started taking shape when we crossed the moat and entered the gate of the walled city.

The walled city of Chiang Mai

The Blue House run by Jimmy, the friendly ex-trek leader, was a welcome retreat in the centre of town. It was really nice to meet up again with Hans & Josie (a great retired couple from Holland who not only had recommended the guest house, but who we had also met in Cambodia and bumped into on numerous occasions in Bangkok). Our friendly host did a great sales pitch for a 3 day trek in the nearby mountains and we were soon gearing up for our expedition with 10 other suckers, including the ever-impressive Hans & Josie. Hiking boots dusted off and CamelBacks filled for the first time (Treve was determined to use these fine specimens!) we jumped onto the "songthaews" (converted pick-up trucks with benches down the sides) like a herd of cattle going to market.

The first activity was bamboo rafting (or sinking, depending on how much lunch you'd eaten). Treve re-kindled his mokoro poling skills from our time in Botswana and even managed to stay upright and dry, despite the best efforts of the local guide to tip the raft or beach it on one of the many rapids. The Finnish couple and Katrina made it in one piece despite sitting in waist-deep water for the whole ride. The searing heat soon dried us off and we were ready to conquer the mountains on our "2 hour gentle trek".

Incredible colouring

Our goal for the day was a Karen hilltribe village where we would spend the night before trekking further into the mountains the following day. The first hour proved more than just a gentle leg-stretcher, as we all gave each other knowing looks when we stopped for a breather (and for some a swim) at a tranquil pool at the foot of a low waterfall.

Katrina of the jungle!

Heavy rain had started falling just 5 minutes previously but we had been sheltered by the canopy of the forest. Shower subsided, a lot of the group (including Katrina) crossed the rocks to the centre of the river. From nowhere, a torrent of water started plummeting over the falls and in a matter of seconds the rocks were submerged and mild panic set in - a hasty shove from our guide led us back onto the bank and nervous laughs were had by all! We looked back at the river and realised the true meaning of a flash flood.

Our path to the village now blocked by the torrent, we were forced to re-trace our steps and beat a new track, circumventing the river. Suddenly a 2 hour hike was now a 5 hour slog. It doesn't sound too much until you feel the high humidity and 30-plus temperatures which the Thais put up with all year around. The sweat was literally pouring out of our ears and suddenly the CamelBacks seemed like a fine idea!

Treve putting a brave face on it

The scenery, however, was beautiful - lush green rice fields, villages nestled between banana plantations and scenery reminiscent of the opium fields described in the "The Beach".

Mountain-side paddy fields

Our guide showed us "essential jungle craft" like popping leaves and blowing bubbles from sap (Ray Meares would no doubt be impressed). Along the way, we waded through streams and splodged through mud and elephant "presents" until we came across our first Karen village local... Oh My Buddha! This all-singing, all-joking vision emerged from the forest and led us finally into the village, like The Pied Piper.

Trekking towards Karen hilltribe village

Our first view of the village as daylight faded was of a cluster of wooden huts raised on stilts. Children were playing while the pigs wallowed nearby in a pool of glorious mud. The evening was spent eating delicious green curry prepared by the villagers and sitting around the camp fire listening to traditional Karen songs sung by the afore-mentioned apparation, who it transpired was the official designated singer for the 3 surrounding villages - he knew a lot of songs about cows and pigs, fuelled by the local moonshine rice whiskey and his stock phrases were "Lubbly-jubbly", "Oh My Buddha!" and "No money, no honey".

Karen tribeswoman

We slept on a raised platform above the pigs and chickens while the families lived in the hut next door. After a restless night (these Thai cockerels cry at all hours of the night), we arose with aching limbs, trench-foot and a group decision to shorten the trek to 2 days (realising that it was downhill all of the way to the finish).

We also visited the very basic village school which was functioning that day without the benefit of a teacher.

Karen village school

3 hours later, we arrived at the elephant trekking centre and Pompo our hairy Indian elephant plodded us throught the forest and later was rewarded with a big bunch of bananas - he seemed more than happy with the deal that we'd struck.

Nervous elephant sizes us up

Boil-in-the-bag couple riding the big beast

For the remaining time in Chiang Mai, we gazed at the many golden Buddhas in all of their different guises.

Doi Suthep temple overlooking Chiang Mai

Yet another shrine to Buddha

Katrina endlessly trawled the markets - one of her favourite past-times and Treve's pay-back for all of those gadget shops in Hong Kong.

Young monks searching for a bargain

Eyeing a bargain

We visited a local handicraft cooperative where a piece of bamboo was amazingly transformed into a traditional parasol using such methods as carving, paper-making and painting.

Parasol making

Hand-made paper drying in the sun

Completed parasols

So now we're sorry to say that we're writing this from the paradise island of Koh Chang, near the Cambodian border. Unsurprisingly enough, it's too hot to sit on the beach, so this internet cafe has beckoned.

Time out

We'll tell you all about it (watered down for British consumption) when we reluctantly return to Bangkok next week!

Lots of love,
Katrina & Treve xxx