30/06/05

Permalink 04:45:52 pm, 805 words   English (UK)

Part 3 - Leaving Kenya for Tanzania

Well, as you can see, we survived the first class of Kenyan Railways. It was a real throw-back to the colonial era with silver service and the odd battered Sheffield steel cutlery thrown in. Calling it 1st Class was certainly stretching things! We emerged 14 hour later, exhausted and slightly deshevelled after the train drew to a halt, having just passed through Kenya's largest slum Kibera on the outskirts of Nairobi. An experience, it certainly was!

The following day, we joined Jamie on a road trip north of Nairobi towards Mount Kenya to visit the farms near Nanyuki - another playground for the Brits during colonial times.

Can't say fairer than that!
Can't say fairer than that!

We stayed in small straw roofed smurf-style huts at Nanyuki Sports club.

Smurf huts at Nanyuki Sports Club
Smurf huts at Nanyuki Sports Club

Luckily, it was club night and the evening was spent supping Tusker beers around the open fire with Jamie & his other British ex-pat farming friends.

Treve & Jamie enjoy a nice cuppa - splendid!
Treve & Jamie enjoy a nice cuppa - splendid!

The last couple of days in Nairobi were spent with Jamie & Lian, dining out at the infamous Carnivore restaurant where we sampled scarey looking meats. Supposedly, we ate giraffe, crocodile and maybe monkey - who are we to argue?! It was a bit of a tourist trap, but you veggies would have loved it!!

Fancy a giraffe or croc burger?!
Fancy a giraffe or croc burger?!

On Sunday, we said our goodbyes to Jamie, Lian & Pip the dog, who had put us up (or put up with us?!) in Nairobi for the previous 3 weeks (missing you already!) and took the shuttle bus down to Arusha, crossing the hectic border into northern Tanzania. It certainly would have been easy to run through with no passport - very relaxed (slack)!

Six hours later, we arrived in Arusha to the warm welcome of the Dhariwals - the Tanzanian branch of Pip & Veninders' family (Katrina's long-time friend from school days). The family have been in business in Arusha for the last 60 years, specialising in long-distance haulage. We spent three happy days in their company, staying in their lovely house in central Arusha. Many thanks to Avi, Kim, Mr & Mrs Dhariwal Snr and the kids for your kind hospitality & delicious Indian food (we're missing it already!) - we had so much fun with you!

The family showed us the local attractions, including the nearby Snake Park. Usually tourists also take the opportunity to ride a camel or try on traditional Masai outfits, but Treve point-blankly refused to take part in either. Pride or fear - we'll let you decide.

The Dhariwal family (minus Avi!) visit Arusha Snake Park
The Dhariwal family (minus Avi!) visit Arusha Snake Park

Treve even had a go at holding an exhibit!

Treve being unusually brave!
Treve being unusually brave!

Sun sets on Mount Meru, Arusha
Sun sets on Mount Meru, Arusha

From Arusha we took a day's safari to the Ngorongoro Crater, some 100 kms away towards the Serengeti National Park. As we left the lush coffee plantations of Arusha behind, we climbed through a peculiar lunar landscape, dotted with the bright red cloaks of the Masai warriors herding their cattle. We climbed slowly up to the Crater rim, passing stunning scenery including Masai bhomas (small holdings) and Lake Manyara. Arriving at the summit, an incredible view unfolded before us.

Ngorongoro Crater
Ngorongoro Crater

The crater is some 20kms across, with a salt lake in the centre and is home of all of the Big Five and many more. We descended a steep track down the side of the rim to enter an enclosed world reminiscent of Jurassic Park.

Flamingos in flight in the Crater
Flamingos in flight in the Crater

Some of the highlights of the day included being escorted down the track by a pride of hungry-looking lions and watching the hippos cooling themselves in the muddy lake.

The boys on the prowl for lunch
The boys on the prowl for lunch

A bit close for comfort!
A bit close for comfort!

Wallowing in glorious mud!
Wallowing in glorious mud!

On Wednesday, we took the long road down to Dar es Salaam on the coast, passing Mount Kilimanjaro along the way.

The snow-capped peak of Africa's highest, Mount Kilimanjaro
The snow-capped peak of Africa's highest, Mount Kilimanjaro

The rickety coach took a long 10 hours to arrive on the tropical humid coast, passing through constantly changing scenery and dodgy service stations serving the traditional chicken & chips beloved of the Tanzanians! Empty cartons were thrown from the bus windows without a second thought. Anyone mention saving the environment?

Stopping for supplies on the long road to Dar
Stopping for supplies on the long road to Dar

So here we are, staying in a budget backpackers hostel in the dodgy end of central Dar - simple, but clean and at 6 pounds a night each, who can complain? There is also an excellent Indian just around the corner, so we're just about sorted. Talking of which, it's time for nosh, so we'll sign off for now and tell you all about our stay here next time.

Keep in touch & Kwaheri!

Treve & Katrina xxx

Our World Travelogue

This is the on-line travelogue of Treve Kneebone and Katrina Lomax. The Windsor-based couple are embarking on an epic voyage of discovery to the four corners of the world.

Travel Info